Quaternary ammonium compounds (quats), like behentrimonium chloride (BTAC) and cetrimonium chloride (CTAC), are commonly used in hair conditioners to make hair smooth, glossy, and easier to comb. However, these compounds pose significant health and environmental risks. L'Oréal is working on finding safer, more biodegradable alternatives, but this is a challenge across the industry.
The goal is to find alternatives that not only match or improve the conditioning effects of quats but are also safer for both people and the environment. These alternatives need certain properties, such as being amphiphilic (able to mix with both water and oil), having a specific molecular structure, and being poorly soluble in water. The alternatives should also fit with current manufacturing processes.
After reviewing several options, the report suggests six alternatives grouped into three main strategies:
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Aminolipids: These are bio-based, cationic surfactants like brassicyl isoleucine esylate (BIE) and brassicyl valinate esylate (BVE), which are already available in the market. These could replace BTAC and CTAC, but further research is needed to see if higher concentrations are safe and effective enough for consumers.
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Nonionic Surfactants: Examples include mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) and alkyl polyglucosides (APGs). These sugar-based, biodegradable alternatives are less irritating to the skin and eyes. However, there are concerns about their cost and the need for more data on their safety and environmental impact. Modifying these compounds to behave like cationic surfactants could improve their effectiveness.
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Biopolymers: Chitosan and silk proteins, which can be derived from plant proteins, food waste, or fungi, are alternatives to animal-based sources like silkworms. These biopolymers don’t perform as well as other alternatives in conditioning hair but may offer other benefits like repair. More research is needed to explore how to improve their performance.
In conclusion, while there are promising alternatives, further research is necessary to refine these options and ensure they meet consumer and environmental standards.